Microscope
The
microscope must be able to accommodate the height of the ice stage. A Wu
Lab microscope:

Chilling Box
1.
Styrofoam box bottom, lined with small plastic bag to prevent the styrofoam
from becoming water-logged. Beach coolers make great boxes.

2.
Styrofoam box top (used upside down) with four holes, each filled with a glass
shell vial. The vials are held in place by two sets of rubber bands that keep them from sliding out in either
direction. Without the rubber bands, the vials will not stay in
place. See the underside of the box top:

3.
"Chilling vials" with a Kimwipe stopper are placed into the four
glass shell vials. Flies go into these chilling vials.
4.
To assemble for fly work: First, put ice in the styrofoam box.
Second, add water to make an icy slush to within 1.5 inches of the rim.
Third, place the styrofoam top on the box so that the shell vials sit in the
icy slush.
Ice Stage
1.
Components:
White plastic jar with a round piece of styrofoam inside to help the ice float.
Blue insulating foam with two rubber bands:
Progresso
soup can to form the ice:

2.
To assemble for fly work:
A. Fill the Progresso soup can to about 2/3 full. Let freeze at -20
degrees.
B. When the ice has formed, remove the ice by running hot water around
the can and sliding the ice out.
C. Fill the plastic jar with water.
D. Put the ice into the plastic jar, on top of the styrofoam
floater. Make sure that the ice is floating freely from the sides of the
jar.
E. Put the cap on the jar. Do this over the sink, as water will be
running out as the ice gets pushed further down.
F. Place the plastic jar inside
the blue insulating foam, for a longer lasting ice stage.

Using the ice setup
Once
the chilling box and ice stage are set-up (which takes about 2 minutes and
lasts for about 5 hours), you are ready to chill flies.
1.
Transfer flies from the vial they are in into your chilling vial. Tap
against a place mat to prevent breaking the glass chilling vial. The
chilling vial should be pre-chilled to prevent flies from easily crawling up
the sides. Also, long forceps and a kimwipe can be used to wipe off any
condensation before adding flies, so that they will not get trapped in the
moisture. The flies will become immobile within seconds.
2.
If flies are in a bottle, use a funnel to get them into the chilling
vial. This funnel should have the plastic ridges on the outside razored
off, so as not to cause the chilling vial to shatter with the force of repeated
tapping.
3.
After flies are chilled, pour them onto the ice stage. The flies will
remain immobile and allow you to do microscope work as long as the ice stage
remains cold.
4.
To remove flies from the ice stage, brush them onto an index card folded
lengthwise.
5.
One of the four slots in the ice stage can be used for a morgue vial to collect
the discarded flies. This vial can be put in the freezer at the end of
the day to kill the flies...make sure not to leave this sitting behind
overnight, as the ice will melt by morning and the flies will wake up and
escape.
Additional notes
1.
To minimize condensation during warm summer months, a white index card cut to
the shape of the ice stage can be placed on top of the stage and used as a
sorting surface.
2.
There are no obvious side effects to chilling the flies. They wake up
within seconds after being removed from the cold stage. Chilling does not
virginize female flies or sterilize male flies.